Don't you know it? Thorough explanation of the types and usage of the carabiner

Mike lives in Huadu, Guangzhou city surrounded by mountains and nature. For mountaineering, he is an orthodox school with the qualification of a mountain instructor (alpine climbing) certified by the Japan Sports Association. Climbing, backcountry, free climbing, alpine climbing, mountain climbing, and mountain play are worth living. He is a father of two children and is active as an outdoor freelance writer.

There are many types of the carabiner. Even if I go to an outdoor equipment company and try to buy it, there are too many shapes and types and I get lost. It is necessary to use the carabiner properly depending on the purpose. We will introduce the types and uses.

Basic knowledge of carabiner

About the name of the carabiner.

First of all, you need to know what a carabiner looks like. Let's start with the name.

Gate (shaft)

Part A is the part that opens and closes. It is used when passing a rope or sling through a carabiner.

Spine

Part B is the part that hits the back of the carabiner body.

Nose

The part of C is the part where the gate is hooked.

There are other ways to call small parts, but first of all, there is no problem if you remember the above three points.

Carabiner strength

Carabiner strength display.

The strength of the carabiner is stated on the carabiner body. The strength of the carabiner varies slightly depending on the item.

Strength in the vertical (long) direction

When applying a load to the carabiner, use it so that the load is applied in the vertical direction. As you can see at a glance from the notation of strength, the strength is strongest in the vertical direction.

This carabiner means it can withstand a load of 24kN (about 2,400kg) in the vertical direction.

Lateral (short) strength

This carabiner can withstand a load of 8kN (about 800kg) in the lateral direction. However, compared to the strength in the vertical direction, the strength is about one-third. The carabiner is vulnerable to lateral force, and the load applied in this state is called the "minor axis". In this case, the carabiner may break, so be careful not to cause a minor axis when using it.

Open gate

The illustration that the carabiner gate is open shows the strength when the gate is open (open gate). In this case, it is 7kN (about 700kg) in the vertical direction, which is less than one-third.

Note that the load capacity will be weaker as in the lateral direction. Generally, the gate is closed by the force of a spring, so it is unlikely that the gate will be open. However, if the spring is broken by an old carabiner, or if the rope or sling is caught in the gate, it will be an open gate.

Types of carabiner

Now let's talk about the types of the carabiner.

Carabiner shape

Deformed D type (offset D)

Deformed D type (offset D) carabiner.

This type is commonly seen. Loads such as ropes can be collected in one place (of the carabiner). In most cases, this carabiner is used for general loads, and the point of emphasis is on the spine side of the center.

HMS type

HMS-type carabiner.

A pear-shaped carabiner. Always use this type of carabiner when making a munter hitch (Italian hitch, half-mast knot). The Munter Hitch brakes by turning over the tied bumps, so you need enough space for the bumps to turn over.

In addition, use an HMS-type carabiner for belays, clove hitches, and rappelling.

HMS type carabiner has "H" notation.

Oval type

Oval-type carabiner.

It is oval and the emphasis is on the center of the carabiner. If the load is applied directly underneath, or if the load is applied on a one-to-one basis, it is a good idea to select an oval-type carabiner. It is also suitable for wide slings and pulleys.

 

Gate type

Straight gate

Straight gate carabiner.

It is a commonly used type of carabiner with a straight gate. Please note that the whip flap phenomenon (a phenomenon in which an impact causes an open gate state for a moment) is likely to occur. Since the weight of the carabiner becomes heavy, it is important to use it properly according to the purpose.

Vent gate

Bent gate carabiner.

The shape of the gate shaft is bent. The feature is that it is easy to clip (pass) the rope. It is often used in situations such as hanging a rope. One thing to keep in mind is that while the rope is easy to clip, it is also more likely to come off in the event of a crash.

Wiregate

Wire gate carabiner.

The gate is in the shape of a wire. It is hard to freeze even in winter and has the advantage of being lighter than a straight gate. However, there is a groove in the nose for hooking the wire, and there is a disadvantage that the rope or sling is easily caught in the groove.

The nose of the wire gate has a groove.

General nose shape.

An improved model that does not easily get caught in the groove.

The improved nose also has the disadvantage of increasing thickness.

Carabiner with safety ring

A carabiner with a safety ring is a carabiner with a lock function to prevent the gate from opening without permission. There are two main types of locking methods.

Auto-lock type

Carabiner with auto-lock function.

It locks automatically so you never forget to close it. However, some types are difficult to operate with one hand, so it is better to purchase after actually checking the operability.

By the way, good operability means that there is a high possibility that it will be vacated by some beat.

Screw type

Screw type safety ring.

It is a type that locks by turning the screw and is characterized by being easy to operate with one hand. However, you may forget to close the lock, or the rope may be rubbed and the screw may turn, causing the lock to come off.

Also, if you tighten it too tightly, it will not loosen easily and you may have to use both hands, so be careful.

Precautions when using a carabiner

A carabiner is an important piece of equipment that saves your life. However, if you use it incorrectly, you may not get the original performance (strength) and it may lead to a dangerous situation, so be careful.

Minor Axis

First of all, the minor axis mentioned above often occurs especially when connected to a harness. When belaying or suspending, make sure that the carabiner is firmly pressed in the vertical direction.

Metal fatigue

Since the carabiner is made of metal, it will crack due to aging and impact. If that happens, the strength will not be as expected, and it will lead to the breakage of the carabiner. It is important to carry out regular checks.

In addition, there are many cases where it is unavoidable, but it is better to refrain from connecting metals as much as possible, such as hanging a carabiner on a carabiner.

It can be scratched by hanging it on metal.

Carabiner wear

Carabiner also wears on ropes. If the rope rubs the same part of the carabiner with a strong force over and over again, the carabiner will wear out.

A carabiner with a worn rope.

Can you see that the carabiner is worn out?

To be honest, this is not a problem, but in the worst case, it is not uncommon for the carabiner frame to be halved. Regularly check not only for scratches and metal fatigue but also for wear.

Summary

This time, we have introduced various types of carabiners and their characteristics. The ones introduced here are not all, but if you know at least the above, you will know what kind of carabiner you need.

There is no such thing as a carabiner that can be used all-round, so you need to choose the right carabiner in the right place. I hope that you will deepen your understanding of carabiner while gaining experience as well as knowledge.

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Article source: Don't you know it? Thorough explanation of the types and usage of the carabiner | Shieldon